We try not to put too much pressure on ourselves, but sometimes there’s no getting around an unavoidable truth – some days matter more than others.
Today is a big one for us, not only because we are attempting to summit Snækollur – the highest peak in Kerlingarfjöll – but also because of what it means for our future adventures. Have the kids moved beyond the already-impressive skills they showed in Patagonia and at Pitcairn? Have the adults improved, despite the continued march of time? Will we have it in us to attempt the Salkantay Trek and Kilimanjaro in a few years?
Of course, this is just one hike – so it’s important we not pin all our hopes on it. (But it’s easy to feel that today will act as some form of foreshadowing for what lies ahead.)
We’re up early this morning at around 6:45 am. I managed less than seven hours of sleep, while my wife also had a restless night in which she’d dreamed our daughter was insisting on bringing a particularly pretty green rock all the way up the mountain.
Off to our Highland Base’s included buffet breakfast:
And it’s pretty good – while the sausage is cold and there’s a limited selection of fruit, the eggs are decent and the bacon is crispy. There’s also plenty of hot coffee, which is sorely needed this morning.
We’d initially aimed for a 9 am departure, but our guide Boris had suggested we meet around 8 am to talk through the day’s plans. He’s surprised to find us finished breakfast and ready to go at 8 am, but quickly puts his plans into motion – grabbing some ice climbing gear, hiking poles, and hot chocolate for on top the mountain.
Boris had been concerned that the weather might not hold off for our ascent, but the morning remains crisp and clear – even so, this is a difficult hike. We’re simply going to give it our best shot.
We hop into our vehicle and follow Boris’s vehicle further up the F347 road until it branches between the Hveradalir geothermal area and the ascent to Snækollur.
We soon reach the bustling parking area:
Boris hands out the hiking poles – which we normally do not use, but when the guide insists you need hiking poles you take the damned hiking poles. (All right, I only take one because of the damned camera – but still.)
And up we go:
The hike itself is ‘only’ 7 km, but includes roughly 600 metres in elevation gain. The terrain is also rocky and quite slippery – we’re immediately grateful for the hiking poles!
There’s quite a bit of obsidian on the side of the mountain:
This rocky terrain would have been left behind as the glacier retreated.
We already have a sweeping view of the valleys, mountains and glaciers in the area:
The massive nearby glacier is generally not used for tourist activities – too many crevasses.
There’s a small icefield on the side of Fannborg too – which we might climb with crampons and ice axes, depending on how much time we have after our main hike.
The Hveradalir geothermal area soon comes into view:
And as we gain altitude, we soon notice steam from the many hot springs:
We’re hoping to get out that way tomorrow, conditions permitting.
This area was recently used for the Kerlingarfjöll Ultra trail race – held on July 25th 2026 – which included 12 km, 20 km, and 60 km races. Boris covered 20 km in one day just setting up way markers. And the next day he had to remove them all. The life of a wilderness guide.
There are moments when it feels like the clouds are going to close in:
But thankfully they hold off:
Words like “striking”, “haunting”, and “otherworldly” get thrown around a lot when talking about Iceland – so I’m mostly going to let the photos speak for themselves.
There’s another series of steep switchbacks:
But we soon reach the top of Fannborg:
Here we take a few moments to drink some hot chocolate, eat a sandwich, and catch our breath.
But it’s also the moment of truth – time for Boris to decide whether we turn back, or if we continue the rest of the way to the top of Snækollur:
Third peak from the left, and straight ahead until morning
Boris is adamant – we should carry on.
We’re remarkably high up at this point, and going higher – but first we need to descend a ways:
There’s other geothermal areas out beyond Fannborg:
Boris offers to take us out that way, next time we’re here – sounds lovely to us.
The descent continues:
Then we push forward with the final climb:
Such remarkable views from here:
Onward we go:
The wind is howling around us at this point, but we just keep putting one foot in front of the other.
And – we make it! We want to have a snack to celebrate, but the wind is just too high – so we place a rock on the cairn:
And savour the view:
Then it’s time to head back the way we came:
As Boris notes, we are only halfway done
What goes up, most go down:
I don’t think I’ll ever get tired of this scenery:
Then one last ascent:
The winds continue to pick up, sending a cascade of rocks down the ice field. It seems unlikely that we’ll still have enough gas in the tank to attempt ice climbing after this, but we’ll see how it goes.
We reach the top of Fannborg once more, and begin the main descent. At this point the clouds have really started to close in:
So much for the sweeping views of the Hveradalir geothermal area:
At this rate we’ll scarcely be able to see our feet in front of us.
It’s a challenging descent, as the shale stones keep sliding beneath our feet:
We do take a detour over to the ice field – but as we (understandably) did not schlep all the ice gear up this way, we’re hoping there’s a snowy / rocky base that might make this leg a little easier:
It’s still quite icy so – after a little slipping and sliding – we head back to the main descent.
I’m sure Boris would be amenable to coming back up to attempt ice climbing, but we don’t have it in us at this stage – besides, the clouds are definitely blowing in:
On the way, we pass two other groups who are just starting their ascent. our guide checks with each of them to ensure they have food, water and extra layers. Boris also works with Iceland Search and Rescue, and is regularly called out to assist when people run into trouble in the highlands – which is not infrequently!
Boris also admits some measure of prior skepticism regarding our climbing abilities, but he is thrilled to have been proven wrong. He commends the kids for not complaining at all during the hike. (They really have done so well, and we are incredibly proud of them.)
We bid farewell to Boris in the parking lot, and let him know that we’ll make our own way back to Highland Base – we want to sit in the car and finish our second round of sandwiches first.
And the verdict on our private Snækollur ascent? This was not an inexpensive excurision – it worked out to more than CAD$350 each – but it was absolutely worthwhile, and I would not have attempted that climb without a guide.
However, for those considering an ascent of their own it’s worth noting that we had exeptional weather, and that a guide like Boris might only do three ascents with clients a season. The weather was so exceptional he took his own series of photos. (He also graciously offered to get some footage of us from his licensed drone – but the wind had picked up by the time we had summited.)
Back to Highland Base, where we pay a visit to the baths:
Photo Credit: Highland Base
Those not staying at Highland Base would have to pay 5,500 ISK each (roughly USD$45), plus 900 ISK per child. But that’s not terrible compared to many Nordic baths. Baths access is included for Highland Base guests.
Thankfully, we’re staying close enough that I simply wander down in my bathing suit and bathrobe. I still shower before entering, but at least I don’t have to change in and out of my regular clothes.
We head to the waffle bar after:
Tasty. I enjoy the raspberry jam, but the Nutella steals the show.
Then back to the lodge for a bit of reading / writing / relaxing time before returning to the restaurant for dinner.
I get the lamb:
While everyone else gets the steak.
All very tasty.
Then it’s time to head back to the lodge once more, to finish up the day’s writing and listen as the rain closes in and the wind howls against the windows:
Time for bed – perchance to visit the Hveradalir geothermal area tomorrow. But first we’ll need to see what the weather has in store for us.