We were docked in Tobermory last night, which had its pros and its cons. It was lovely to have a shower before dinner, but it also meant that the harbour security lights shone brightly through our windows.
Thankfully, sheer exhaustion has meant that we’re still sleeping well enough – particularly when combined with our well-established eyemask habit. Thanks ,Air Canada – three of us are using your business class eyemasks and they’re surprisingly decent.
So dawns our last full day on Zuza. How has it gone? Would we do it again? We have thoughts on the matter, but those are the questions that we will answer tomorrow, once this sailing has run its course.
But first – a hot croissant freshly baked by Chef Caroline:
Simply filling in the very few cracks left after a bowl of Greek yoghurt with her famous compote and homemade granola
There’s a familiar scene on shore today:
Zodiacs from Polar Latitudes are in town today
The Polar Latitudes ship Ocean Victory
For once, we’re glad to be anchored and not taking zodiacs ashore.
Next – a hike to the Aros waterfall. We start out by the Tobermory Distillery:
And past one of the lovely rivers:
If these are the unmarked waterfalls, we’re excited to see what Aros has to offer.
Unfortunately, we have blindly followed Google Maps’ instructions – which sends us along the roadway, instead of through Aros Park. But there are some benefits such as getting the uphill portion mostly out of the way upfront. And this view of the nearby farmlands:
We cut down a path toward Aros the first chance we get:
The main path is paved. Notionally, vehicles can come down this way – but we don’t see any.
It’s a lovely, gnarled old forest – the best kind in my opinion.
We reach the upper waterfall after perhaps 45 minutes. It’s only a few kilometres from town.
Space was at a premium for this leg of the trip, so I wasn’t able to bring my tripod.
But, wait – what have we here?
Who needs a tripod when you have a tree-pod?
Much better:
We then head down the narrow, rocky path, passing a frisbee golf course along the way:
Then reach the lower falls:
A convenient handrail functions as another tripod replacement
There’s a nice view of town from here too:
While heading back toward Tobermory, we run into a group from Polar Latitudes. One of their expedition guides explains that they were supposed to attempt St. Kilda, but the weather was not in their favour.
(We refrain from mentioning that we were fortunate enough to land at St. Kilda in 2023, before we had any sense of how difficult that landing can be!)
It’s a bit of a through-the-looking-glass moment for us, as we are usually the ones on the expedition cruise side of this equation. There is a pang as we see them spending time with naturalists and ornithologists, but we do not miss setting out in twenty-person-plus groups.
We carry on down the path:
Mostly it’s fine, but sometimes it’s a challenge:
Back to Tobermory, where we run into Peter and the rest of the crew – who inform us that we have until noon to get back to the vessel.
This is excellent news, as it not only gives us time to visit the Tobermory Bakery and Tea Room:
It also gives us the chance to take in the Mull Highland Games, starting with the parade.
First the clan elders walk past:
And then the high school pipe band:
A huge procession heads up to the Tobermory Golf Course, where the games are being held. It’s 25 GBP for a family admission pass. There’s numerous local vendors selling food and handicrafts:
There’s also an archery stand, in which our son partakes:
We then watch the shotput competition – also known as the 16 pound hammer toss:
Then come some of the footraces:
The gentleman in grey entered only a few minutes before the race began. He places last, but gets a huge cheer. Events are open to both locals and anyone who happens to be at the Games. The game record for the 16lb hammer toss was set in 2015 by a competitor from Poland and one of today’s runners is from Melbourne, Australia.
There’s also highland dancing:
And a junior high jump competition:
Our daughter seriously considered entering this one – she’s quite good at high jump
Sadly, we can’t stick around for the caber toss – it’s soon time for the kids to each grab an ice cream cone:
Admire some more of the local flora:
And to return to Zuza:
We soon depart for Lochaline. There’s next to no wind, so we’ll be motoring today.
Still, some stunning scenery enroute:
Plus a fantastic lunch – Caroline has made a cheese fritata and a beetroot salad:
And an onion fritata:
Outstanding.
After two hours on the water, we pull into Lochaline:
Peter has arranged for us to visit a sauna:
He’s booked out the entire sauna for a full hour – albeit at a modest extra cost (Photo Credit: Lochaline Harbour Instagram)
But first, we head out on a quick hike.
We notice the sign for the local ‘Har Bar’ along the way:
We’ll see you soon, Har Bar!
We then take a walk up the nearby path:
Spotting a heron as we go:
There are some nice views of the ships at the dock:
And more of the local flora:
But sadly, our sauna session starts shortly – so we turn back after a brief meander.
I’ve already paid up. It was 78.50 GBP for everyone – or roughly 13 GBP a person. Pretty good value, all considered. There are also hot showers available at the rate of 1 GBP for 4 minutes.
We get changed on the ship, and then head over to the sauna. It’s absolutely roasting inside – more than 100 Celsius.
Photo Credit: Lochaline Harbour Instagram
We soon head back out to soak ourselves in the sea, rinse off in the plunge pool, and repeat the cycle anew.
A lot of thought has gone into setting this up. There’s a bit of artificial turf and a foot bath so you’re not tracking dirt inside.
We manage three or four cycles before we head back to the yacht club for a quick shower. The facilities there are nicer than those in Tobermory – quite clean, and with better pressure.
Photo Credit: Lochaline Harbour Instagram
Back to Zuza to change, and then we head off to the Har Bar.
I get a Loch Ness:
And a Black Isle Hibernator:
Aptly named at 7% ABV
The kids each have an ice cream, followed up with a hot chocolate.
Originally the departure time is 5 pm, but Peter pushes back to 5:30 pm. We’re all having a good time – why rush?
Sadly, not enough time for a coorie (snuggle) around the fire
There’s just a great vibe here. Lots of sailors getting together to swap stories. We even run into Zuza’s other First Mate, who lives in the area.
My wife and kids head back a few minutes earlier, while I return to Zuza at 5:29 pm. “Good thing this isn’t a cruise ship!” Caroline remarks. Fair point – hard to sprint to catch a boat after two Scottish beers…
We then set off for a final cruise off toward Oban:
I shoot a few photos of a nearby sailing ship, and lamenting that I have no way of getting the photos to them. It’s beautiful conditions, and I suspect they’d like to have copies for themselves.
Peter actually gets on the radio and makes contact – he gets their WhatsApp number, so I’m able to send on the photos.
“You never get photos of your own boat,” Peter remarks.
It’s a kind thought – followed by another, as he takes us to Duart Castle, stronghold of Clan MacLean. One of our guests is a MacLean by descendant – she hoped to visit during another trip, and was ditched by her driver – but Peter made it happen:
There’s even a gingerbread snack to go with it:
More kind thoughts. And Scotland repays our kindness with one of the finest golden hours I’ve ever seen:
The ruins of Gylen castle, on the Isle of Kerrera
It’s a spectacular swan song to a truly remarkable journey:
There’s even another seal:
But we soon approach our mooring point offshore of Kerrara, within sight of Oban:
And set anchor for the night:
Caroline serves another feast – Vietnamese rice noodles and oven-roasted chicken:
Followed by another delicious piece of the Tunisian citrus cake:
And then the kids retire to their rooms for the night, and my wife and I head up to the bridge to do a bit of writing, and enjoy an after dinner drink. Teagan is doing dishes in the galley, singing along to sea shanties.
The sea grows still, the light fades, and for a brief moment, this is all there is. We inhabit this timeless space where Peter will come up every night and say, “Here’s what I’m thinking for tomorrow…” and the scents of Caroline’s cooking will waft up from the kitchen, and Teagan will scan the horizon for wildlife, perchance to spot a seal, or a dolphin, or an otter, or…
Ah, well. Time for bed.