Another later start to the day today, which meant I actually got to enjoy a coffee on the lanai without interruptions.
Our travel agent even confirmed that our new LATAM flights worked for Explora Atacama, so that’s another item off the list. No word yet as whether we’re able to get LATAM to cover the additional cost that resulted from their refusal to downgrade a Premium Economy fare to Economy.
Unfortunately, we got word back from the Royal Tahitien that their expensive-but-convenient shuttle was already committed to an airport run. Looks like we’ll just have to hope we can get a taxi at the Tahiti ferry terminal. What’s the worst that could happen?
Shortly after 9 am, we set off for Pacifik Attitude for what could either be the absolute highlight of our time in Moorea, or a crushing disappointment – we will attempt to swim with humpback whales.
This is also the tour that has been subject to the greatest number of changes since we first started booking this trip – French Polynesia introduced new regulations which meant that a maximum of three boats could be around a group of whales at any point in time, whale-watching boats were restricted to one boat per company, and private boats were required to stay 300 metres away.
We are fully in support of rules that make it so that this activity can be done safely and sustainably without stressing the whales but it did dramatically increase the cost of our tour. (It also didn’t help that we had elected to book the boat out for ourselves – but we wanted the flexibility to adjust the trip to our needs without worrying whether we were inconveniencing anyone else.)
We had three choices for time slots – early morning with a 5 am departure, midday with a 10 am departure, or early afternoon with a 2 pm departure. We knew that the pace of this portion of the trip was high, so we opted for the mid-morning departure.
We showed up at the meeting spot at 9:30 am. By 9:45 am the other party had disembarked, and we were soon aboard.
Our guide Annalise began by explaining the safety rules – she would be the first one in and out of the water, and would have a safety board with her. She would be in ‘front’ at all times – we could not get any closer to the whales than her.
Unfortunately, they did not have fins that fit our daughter so she would need to hang on to the board with Annalise. However, this might for the best given that the boat would need to remain well over 100 metres away from the whales – it was a long distance to cover.
Annalise was also careful to explain that – while we hoped to see whales – nothing was guaranteed. She ran through some of the signs we were looking for that would indicate whales – the fin, the tail, and the blow – and then we were on our way:
I’d brought my good camera in case we had some time with the whales on the surface, and to get a few more landscape shots:
One of our biggest concerns with this excursion was the risk of seasickness. We’d taken Bonine (and children’s Gravol for my daughter) before departing, but the swells were fierce this morning – well over 2 metres, which in particularly noticeable in a smaller boat. We felt it the moment we left the lagoon.
The whale-spotting served as a welcome distraction. It very much felt like our time in Sabi Sands and Etosha – eyes scanning, looking for the smallest sign of elusive wildlife.
We thought we spotted something to the north:
But no luck. So we went south, instead, where we found a site that already had three boats on it. Thankfully, one of the boats was already on the verge of departing, so we only had to wait perhaps ten minutes before it was our turn to move in.
When the call came, we raced to get our gear on and then dropped into the water. Then came the long swim toward the whales. Annalise reminded us to keep our flippers below the water, and not to swim with our hands – presumably to avoid scaring the whales.
We would surface occasionally, and get directions from our boat and others. Visibility was quite good, but we still could only see roughly 50 metres in any direction. There was a brief, terrible moment when we wondered if we would ever see anything.
But then:
Words like “exceptional” and “incredible” tend to get thrown around, and I am one of the worst offenders. So I thought a long time about what this felt like. The best I can manage is to tell you that I felt awe-struck. The sheer scale of these incredible creatures was remarkable. I’ve seen them from zodiacs and boats so many times, but swimming alongside them was a profound experience.
Also – they swam slower than we expected!
It was at this point that the sea state began to catch up to us and several of us started to feel ill. We would have loved to stay there longer, but it was time to go. We informed Annalise, and she immediately took us back to the boat. We quickly returned to the lagoon, and everyone immediately felt much better.
They offered to take us to another spot for some snorkelling in the lagoon, but we elected to return to shore. We accepted some lovely pineapple and a glass of rum punch (for the adults), though we politely declined the quiche. Our son joked that we were quite the “rumpunchctious” group. We were all starting to feel much better, but that was enough adventure for one day.
A quick boat ride through the lagoon, and we were once more back on short. We weren’t quite as early as we thought, either – we were out there for close to three hours of our four allotted hours. But as inscribed over the Oracle of Delphi: “Nothing too much.”
Back to our villa for sandwiches, homework, some writing – and to start packing up. Hard to believe that we’re already leaving Moorea, when it feels like we just got here. We didn’t really unpack, though, so we just puttered at packing up. Mostly we enjoyed a well-deserved break after an exhausting adventure.
My wife used this time to grab a shot of their snorkeling shed:
Lots of good stuff in here, including full masks, fins, lifejackets, and everything else you need for snorkelling and kayaking.
Meanwhile, one of the nearby yacht-goers was trying out one of those self-propelled surfboards, so I took it as an opportunity to try out the new 180 – 600 mm telephoto lens:
Very pleased with these shots, despite the scene being backlit. (I’m also being careful where I shoot so that I don’t inadvertently get a glimpse through anyone’s window.)
And I’d never be so petty as to include shots of someone falling off their surfboard.
Or would I?
Off to dinner! We’re headed to Casa Vincenzo, which cooks a traditional Naples-style pizza. Reservations are required days in advance so that they know how much dough to make. I started with the Casa cocktail, which included coconut milk, pineapple juice and rum:
It tended to separate out a bit after a while, but it was fine so long as you stirred it.
I then had the Burrata pizza, which included burrata and proscuitto, while the kids both got the Bufala pizza with Buffalo mozzarella, to which they added bacon.
My Burrata pizza – it was very, very tasty.
The kids saved room for dessert. My son had the chocolate cake:
While my daughter had the lemon tart:
Total cost for dinner for the four of us was somehwere around US$185. We could’ve likely gotten away with three pizzas instead of four, particularly as the kids wanted to save some room in their “dessert stomachs” (which is, of course, separate from their regular stomach – you can see that they’ll be all ready for their forthcoming cruise).
Then back to the villa for our last night on the lanai. I thought I was going to fall asleep in the deck chair after my first glass of wine, so I went to bed right at 9 pm.
Having finished Lev Grossman’s Magicians trilogy, I have since moved on to the Mutiny on the Bounty trilogy, which should prove apt reading as we make our way toward Pitcairn.
Busy day tomorrow as we make our way back to Tahiti for our final overnight at the Royal Tahitien before we board the Silver Cloud.
What an amazing experience!
Swimming with whales!!!
😀 Nana